Lucky Ducks

A week on a river boat, 

traveling from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. 

How heavenly! 

Right?!

But, when we arrived in Amsterdam, the skies were grey. 

The temperatures were unseasonably cool. 

It rained.

When we left Amsterdam it rained. It was cold. In each city and town that we visited we heard, over and over again, how terribly cold it was. How terribly rainy it was. How they wished spring would come.

S.S. Antoinette

Mr. Dreamy and I used our umbrellas more in one week than we have used them in a year! One of our guides commented that he hoped spring would arrive on a Saturday so more people could enjoy it! (We had been saying the same thing at home a few weeks before - I found it interesting that the joke is universal!) Although we never were soaked by rain during any of our tours, it dripped now and then and the rain came down in buckets at convenient times; when we were in a building or on the boat.

The Rhine River was raging. In the beginning, we didn't realize anything was different than normal. Then we began to see that the water was high.  In some areas ramps or steps were under water. In other areas we could see that trees along the river's edge were in the water. Some navigation signs were on their way to being submerged.

The current was awesome to watch. Here you can see the muddy waters of the Rhine and the Mosel Rivers taken from a tram above Koblenz, Germany. Our river boat is on the upper left.

At one point the ship's Captain explained that he had to take on extra water to drop the ship 30 cm in the water so we could navigate under some bridges that evening. 30 cm?! That's a lot! That is almost 12 inches!

This is another river boat that has taken on water to lower the decks. The waterline is below the water. The windows on the lowest deck (do you call them portholes when they aren't round?) near the back of the ship, are only inches from the water.

Most of the river boats can lower items on their top deck to help them navigate under bridges. This boat, tied up next to our ship,  could even lay the railings down flat. The wheelhouse also moves up and down by hydraulics.

Our captain showed us the large skylight in the wheelhouse he can open in the event he has to lower the wheelhouse so much that he can't stand up. I supposed he could stick his head out to navigate as he maneuvered the ship under a low bridge!

Here he is showing us a Delft china tear bottle. He explained the legend that ship captains' wives collected their tears in the bottles and gave them to their husbands before they left for sea. Our captain's bottle was dry, since his wife is also employed by the company and she travels with him most weeks!

On our next to last evening we were told we would have a special address by the Captain. That was unusual. He explained that we would not be leaving the dock and heading upriver to Basel. There was a bridge along the way that he wasn't sure we could navigate under. Our river boat was a 'super ship'. It is a little taller than some of the other styles. We would spend the night in Breisach, Germany and our transfers to airports, train stations and other locations would take only slightly longer from this location. He also suggested that staying in Breisach wasn't such a bad thing. First, most of our travel up the Rhine from that point on would be through a canal with concrete sides; not very scenic. Secondly, most of that route would have occurred at night, when we couldn't see anything anyway. And, thirdly, staying in Breisach would allow us to have a longer visit in the Alsatian villages of Kayserberg and Riquewihr.

I wasn't upset about our circumstances. Our trip had been very interesting. The food and service had been wonderful. Yes, it would have been ideal with spring-like weather.... but it was still excellent, and something I'd love to do again, given the opportunity.

We recently heard that the Rhine river was closed to all traffic from Koblentz to the south due to the high waters. Oh, my! Then, I read in USA Today that the major riverboat cruise lines are canceling upcoming trips along the Danube due to flooding. How awful! When I think about how long ago we planned our trip, and how much we were looking forward to it, I can't imagine the disappointment of learning that the cruise wouldn't happen. Were we lucky, or what?

Although the rising waters may have had an impact on river travel, I am thinking there is one segment of the population that doesn't mind....

Stately swans along the Rhine

Enjoying a cookie from 'afternoon tea'

Egyptian Geese in Breisach

 We were intrigued with the pile of goslings,

snuggled together to keep warm.

We could only guess at how many were there.

Canada geese and goslings

Despite the water woes Europe is experiencing,

There are still some Lucky ducks!

The Best Little Canal House...

We arrived in Amsterdam on a rainy day. The rain remained throughout our stay. I am sure the canal houses would have looked even prettier in the sunshine, but regardless, they were very intriguing.

Since the water is literally lapping at their doorsteps, the canal houses were constructed on timbers sunk in the mud. Despite the fact that the houses were constructed in the 17th century, those pilings are still basically sound. 

The canal houses are typified by striking gables with hooks at the top to hoist goods and furniture to upper floors, since the stairways inside are narrow, steep and twisted. Historically,  many of the buildings housed a business on the ground floor and residences on the top. Goods were often stored above the first floor to keep them dry in the event of rising waters.

Property was very expensive, so most canal houses are very narrow.  Only the wealthiest could afford a double wide home.

The building below was probably constructed later than many of the houses, and was not directly on a canal. It was for sale. Do you see the men on the balcony? They have glasses in hand. I wonder if they are sealing a deal with a toast? And, what about the fellow in the upper window? A ghost of some long-ago merchant or well-to-do sailor? Just think of the stories we could create!

It was difficult to walk around the city without tripping or running into someone. My eyes were always on the buildings and their interesting facades. The details are fascinating. It would be nice to know the meaning behind the embellishments on the homes.

Remember the pilings I mentioned? The ones that hold the homes up and are 'basically' sound? Sometimes those timbers shift, or the area above the mud begins to rot. Then, the buildings begin to list to the side. It may not show as well in this picture as it did from the street, but this corner home was definitely leaning to the right, and the homes on the right are leaning into the street on the left.

Here they seem to be making an attempt to stabilize a house by bolting large timber frames to the home,

and shoring it all up from the street level. Mr. Dreamy is checking it all out, while my brother, in the lower left, seems to be leaving in case the building decides to give in to gravity.

But, the best little canal house in town was the B & B we called home for a few days. This darling little house was constructed in 1617, hence the name, Sunhead of 1617. (Do you see the sun head medallion on it?) The house is exactly 4 meters and 20 centimeters wide, and 20 meters deep. So that you don't have to struggle doing the conversion, the building is 13 ft, 9 inches wide by 65 feet deep - I do wish that we would convert to the metric system. Yes, it would be a challenge at first, but once we got used to it, things would be so much easier. But, I digress...

The proprietors have shoehorned 4 bedrooms and baths on the top two floors, and the entry, a kitchen, dining area and a storage area in the area just below street level. The second floor has a living room/office for the owners. Guests are invited to relax there while waiting, if there is an overflow crowd for breakfast. And, if you factor in the size of this dining area with the scrumptious food served in several courses, as well as the witty stories Carlos (one of the owners) shares, it is easy to see how a delay in being seated can occur!

Before acquiring the B & B in 1994, Carlos owned a restaurant. He employs those skills every morning creating sumptuous feasts with local ingredients. We were greeted with coffee or tea, a freshly made smoothie and yummy European breads. Carlos has a spread of spreads. It was difficult for me to practice self-control in not tasting each and every one of them! Just as I was thinking that I had enjoyed a great breakfast, Carlos would then put a plate of eggs, usually cooked with some other delectable ingredients (like the teeny, tiny mushrooms he included one morning) or a tartine and salad. Oh, man! D-E-L-I-C-I-O-U-S! But - we are not finished! Oh, no! Breakfast wouldn't be complete without fruit. Carlos served a compote of fresh berries to finish the repast. He added some sort of liqueur to sweeten the mix and would offer cream on top. 

This is Carlos.

I think he is a "Kitchen Magician"!

Here are more pictures....

Those I didn't think to take, but found posted on the Internet.

Ham & white asparagus tartine

with caprese salad

Morning libations

Eggs à la Carlos

Her Royal Highness

Sunhead

Entry

Entryway and foyer

(always with fresh flowers from the market)

Our room, under the eaves...

This picture really doesn't do it justice.  It is a warm yellow,

even the timbers have a yellow wash on them. 

There are charming elements of decor throughout.

And, saving the best for last...

the stairs, right outside our door!

Getting our suitcase up and then down was a challenge.

We joked that one wouldn't want to have too much 

to drink before climbing the stairs to bed!

I loved staying in such a beautiful, historic residence in the heart of the canal district in Amsterdam. Living in America, it is so hard to conceive of a building being that old! Just think of the stories the walls could tell us, if they could talk!

Image Credits:

Tartine

Libations

Eggs

Cat

Sunhead

Doors

Stairs

Dazzling - Even on a Dreary Day

On our recent trip we visited Keukenhof Gardens. 

The gardens exceeded my expectations. 

In fact, they were totally over the top!

We were two of the 848,984 spring visitors...

viewing some of the flowers from 7 million bulbs....

Some in massive plantings...

Others in whimsical displays...

The colors were astounding...

Whether viewed in masses....

or individually....

There were three huge indoor greenhouse displays....

with orchids...

and azaleas....

and so much more....

There were gardens featuring single colors...

and others showcasing stunning color combinations....

There were tulips of every shape...

and size....

and so many things...

to catch our eyes!

Home Again

Here I sit....  in my living room. The scenery is quite different to that I awoke to yesterday. It is amazing how air travel can magically whisk you from one place to another.... so very different.

But, that 'whisking' isn't all that magical, really.....

• The alarm clock rang at 6:30 AM for a 7:15 AM departure....
• A lovely 45 minute drive to the airport - in the rain.
• (Oh, so lucky we didn't have to take the trains and the bus!)
• 18 minutes to get through security (and just why did we need 2 1/2 hours?!)
• 2 1/2 hours to wait.
• waiting in line to board.
• 78 minute flight to second airport.
• waiting to get off the plane.
• 45 minute wait.
• waiting in line to board.
• 9 hours 38 minutes to fly across the ocean.
• waiting to get off the plane.
• 45 minutes in customs.
• 15 minutes in line for luggage problems.
• 35 minute wait for final plane.
• waiting in line to board.
• 3 hours 25 minutes (plus an additional 35 minutes) for last flight.
• waiting to get off the plane.
• 20 minutes waiting for luggage ...
• and filing a claim for a lost suitcase
• 24 minutes waiting for our friend
• 38 minutes to home. 

All in all... 25 hours and a bit of travel time. Not exactly "whisking"!

So, when do you think time travel will be a reality?!

I'll be writing more...

and sharing pictures...

when I catch up to this time zone!